I've noted in my recent posts an increasing tendency toward introspection and philosophizing, both of which are unattractive qualities in any form of writing, particularly blogs about local coffeeshops. This assessment of Tonina's deli-type thing, therefore, constitutes an effort to return to the old standards of practicality and objectivity evident in my seminal review of cafe Agro, written in the infancy of this blog.
Tonina's is almost directly opposite The Grind, previously reviewed in these pages (I say "pages" under the assumption that you, the reader, have printed out and stapled together this blog). It's not so much a coffeeshop as a deli, but such a description belies the quality of the coffee available within. Illy is becoming more and more rare in Vancouver cafes, perhaps partly due to the popularity of the "buy-local" ethos, but Tonina's is thankfully unfashionable in this area (by which I mean they serve Illy). It's a roast unlike the connoisseur's favourites of North America, such as 49th parallel or Ingelligentsia, but it's a welcome departure. The pour, also, is unlike what you'll find at most high-end coffeeshops; my double espresso was around 5 oz, but did not possess the watery burnt quality and lack of crema that usually characterize a more voluminous double (such as the one you might find at The Grind nearby).
There's very little in the way of pastries, as is befitting in a deli, and I can't vouch for the quality of their sandwiches or other deli goods. The only solid good I've consumed from Tonina's is a small square of Austrian chocolate - filled with some kind of liqeur - which was perfectly sized to accompany an espresso, if rather pricey (just under a dollar, I believe, for about 10g).
Seating consists of a row of chairs at a bar facing the window and a couple tables outside - as I said, Tonina's is not really a coffeeshop. You won't find any reason to stick around after your coffee, but you've got important things to do anyway, right?
'Til next time, Mom and Dad,
Ben
